Smoked Chicken Thighs

Steps

1. The day before, or at least 4 hours ahead, pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels. With kitchen shears, trim any skin hanging past the meat and any large pieces of fat, but keep all the skin covering the top.
2. In a bowl, mix the salt, brown sugar, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, pepper, mustard powder, cayenne, and baking powder, rubbing out any lumps of sugar or baking powder with your fingertips.
3. Sprinkle the rub over all sides, heaviest on the skin side, and rub it in so it sticks. Set the thighs skin side up on a wire rack over a sheet pan and refrigerate uncovered for 4 to 24 hours: the skin tightens and dries, which helps it crisp later.
4. Fire up your smoker or set up your grill for indirect heat and hold it at 275°F (135°C). Add 2 or 3 chunks of apple or cherry wood to the coals and wait until the smoke turns thin and bluish, almost invisible: thick white smoke tastes acrid.
5. Arrange the thighs skin side up on the indirect side, 3/4 inch (2 cm) apart, and insert a probe thermometer into the thickest one without touching the bone. Close the lid and smoke for 60 to 75 minutes, until the thighs reach 158°F (70°C) inside: the skin will be mahogany but still soft.
6. While the chicken smokes, make the green sauce. Finely chop the parsley and cilantro, tender stems included. Seed the jalapeño and dice it small, then grate the garlic. Stir everything together in a bowl with the lime zest and juice, the vinegar, the olive oil, and the pinch of salt. Let it sit for 15 minutes so the flavors come together.
7. Raise the heat for the skin: open the vents wide to reach 400 to 425°F (200 to 220°C), or move the thighs on a rack into an oven preheated to 425°F (220°C). Cook skin side up for 10 to 15 minutes, until the skin is taut, golden brown, and blistered, and the probe reads 175 to 185°F (80 to 85°C).
8. Let the thighs rest on a cutting board for 5 minutes, uncovered: foil would trap steam and soften the skin.
9. Serve the thighs whole with the green sauce on the side or spooned over the meat, never over the skin, so it stays crisp.