Ghapama (Armenian Stuffed Pumpkin)

Steps

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Wash and dry the pumpkin. With a sturdy knife, cut a lid about 5 inches (12 cm) across around the stem, angling the blade toward the center: the cone-shaped lid will sit back in place without falling in.
2. Scrape out the seeds and stringy fibers with a spoon, then scrape the inside flesh until the wall is about 1 1/4 inches (3 cm) thick, smooth, and free of fibers. Rub the inside with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt.
3. Rinse the rice in cold water three times, until the water runs almost clear. Bring the 2 l of water to a boil with 1 teaspoon of the salt, add the rice, and boil hard for 7 minutes: the grain should be tender outside and still distinctly firm in the center when you bite it. Scoop out 60 ml of the cooking water, then drain the rice.
4. While the rice cooks, quarter the apricots, halve the prunes, and rinse the raisins in hot water. Coarsely chop the walnuts and almonds, then toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat for 4 minutes, stirring, until they smell toasty and the almonds turn golden inside.
5. Melt the butter over low heat. Pour 80 g of it into a large bowl with the honey, cinnamon, the 60 ml of cooking water, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and whisk until the honey dissolves. Add the rice, dried fruit, walnuts, and almonds and toss gently with a fork so the grains don't break.
6. Fill the pumpkin with the stuffing without packing it, up to 3/4 inch (2 cm) from the rim: the rice will swell more as it bakes. Put the lid back on. Brush the whole outside of the pumpkin with the remaining 20 g of melted butter.
7. Set the pumpkin on a parchment-lined sheet pan or in a baking dish and bake for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, depending on its size. After 1 hour, check the skin: if it's getting too dark, tent the pumpkin loosely with foil.
8. The ghapama is done when a knife slides through the wall with no resistance at all, the shiny, mottled skin slumps slightly, and the rice under the lid is tender and steaming. Take it out and let it rest for 10 minutes.
9. Set the pumpkin on a large round platter and bring it to the table. Remove the lid, then cut the pumpkin from top to bottom into 6 to 8 wedges, all the way to the base. Spread the wedges out into a crown: the fruited rice spills into the center. Serve each guest a wedge of pumpkin and a big spoonful of rice, drizzled with the cooking juices.