Kadai Paneer

Steps

1. Make the kadai masala: in a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, dried red chiles (stems removed), and black peppercorns for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the coriander darkens by one shade and the kitchen smells toasty. Tip onto a plate, let cool for 2 minutes, and grind to a fine powder in a mortar or spice grinder.
2. Cut the paneer into 3/4 inch (2 cm) cubes and submerge them in the 500 ml (about 2 cups) of very hot water (from the kettle, just off the simmer) with a pinch of the salt: this bath softens them while you cook.
3. Quarter 1 onion and separate its layers into petals; cut the green and red bell peppers into 1 inch (2.5 cm) squares. Finely chop the second onion, grate the ginger and garlic, and blend the tomatoes to a puree.
4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or kadai over high heat. Stir-fry the onion petals and peppers for 2 to 3 minutes, until they are charred in spots but still crisp, then set them aside on a plate.
5. Lower the heat to medium, add 2 tablespoons of the oil and the chopped onion, and cook until golden, 5 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and stir for 1 minute, until the raw smell is gone.
6. Add the turmeric, Kashmiri chili powder, and two thirds of the kadai masala, stir for 30 seconds, then pour in the tomato puree and the rest of the salt. Cook for 5 minutes over high heat, stirring, until the sauce thickens and oil beads around the edges.
7. Loosen the sauce with 100 ml (scant 1/2 cup) of the paneer soaking water, then crumble the dried fenugreek (kasuri methi) between your palms over the wok to wake up its aroma.
8. Drain the paneer and add it with the peppers and onion petals. Toss gently for 2 minutes, just to heat through: any longer and it tightens up and turns rubbery.
9. Off the heat, stir in the cream if using, sprinkle with the rest of the kadai masala, and scatter with chopped cilantro. Serve right away.