Mushroom Stroganoff

Steps

1. Bring 3 liters of water to a boil in a large pot with the coarse salt. Meanwhile, wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel, without soaking them. Slice the button mushrooms 1/4 inch (5 mm) thick, tear the oyster mushrooms into strips, remove the tough shiitake stems and quarter the caps. Thinly slice the onion and mince the garlic.
2. Heat a large 12-inch (30 cm) skillet over high heat for 1 minute, dry. Spread half the mushrooms in a single layer, with no fat and no salt. Leave them alone for 1 minute, then stir: they release their water, which hisses off as steam. Keep going for 2 minutes, until the bottom of the pan is dry again and the mushrooms have shrunk by a third.
3. Add 10 g of butter: it foams right away. Brown for 2 minutes, stirring only 2 times, until the edges are deep brown and it smells nutty. Season with a pinch of fine salt and transfer to a plate. Repeat with the second half of the mushrooms and 10 g of butter.
4. Drop the wide egg noodles into the boiling water and cook for the time on the package, until just tender with a slight bite.
5. Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 20 g of butter to the skillet with the onion. Cook for 3 minutes, scraping up the brown bits left by the mushrooms, until translucent with golden edges. Add the garlic, paprika and flour and stir for 1 minute: the paprika should smell like roasted peppers without scorching.
6. Pour in the vegetable broth, stirring to dissolve the flour, then add the soy sauce and Dijon mustard. Let it bubble for 2 minutes, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Return the mushrooms and their juices and stir for 1 minute to heat through.
7. Take the skillet off the heat. In a bowl, loosen the sour cream with 3 tbsp of the hot sauce, then pour it all into the skillet and stir gently: the sauce turns pale pink, glossy and smooth. Season generously with pepper, taste and adjust the salt.
8. Drain the tagliatelle, saving 100 ml of the pasta water. If the sauce has thickened too much, loosen it with a few spoonfuls of that water, off the heat.
9. Divide the tagliatelle among 4 warm shallow bowls and spoon the stroganoff over the top. Scatter with chopped fresh dill, add a last grind of pepper and serve right away.