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Japanese
Purin (Japanese Custard Pudding)
Purin is the Japanese custard pudding of neighborhood coffee shops: a firm, perfectly smooth milk and egg custard, gently baked in a water bath, that unmolds tall and straight under a slightly bitter amber caramel. Make it the day before, since it needs at least 4 hours to chill and set.
4 servings20 min prep50 min cook
4 servings
Ingredients
whole milk400 ml (1 2/3 cups)base
large eggs3base
egg yolk1pairing
granulated sugar115 g (5/8 cup)pantry
water3 tbsppantry
vanilla extract1 tsppantry
unsalted butter5 g (1 tsp)pantry
Steps
- Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C), conventional setting. Very lightly butter the inside of 4 ramekins of 150 ml (5 oz) each and set them in a high-sided baking dish lined with a folded kitchen towel, which keeps them from sliding and from overheating at the bottom. Put water on to heat in a kettle for the water bath.
- Make the caramel: put 60 g (about 5 tablespoons) of the sugar and 2 tablespoons of the water in a small saucepan over medium heat, without stirring. Once the sugar has dissolved and is bubbling, swirl the pan to even out the color. After 6 to 8 minutes, when it's deep amber, the color of strong tea, take it off the heat and add 1 tablespoon of hot water, standing back because it spatters. Swirl to combine.
- Immediately divide the caramel among the ramekins and tilt them to coat the bottoms. Let it harden while you make the custard: it may crack a little, which is normal.
- Heat the milk with the remaining 55 g (about 1/4 cup) of sugar until the sugar dissolves and the milk reaches about 140°F (60°C): it steams slightly and still feels bearable on your finger. Don't let it boil.
- Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the yolk, and mix with a fork or a whisk kept on the bottom of the bowl, without making foam: you just want to break up the whites. Pour in the hot milk in a thin stream while stirring gently, then add the vanilla extract.
- Strain the custard twice through a fine-mesh sieve. Let it rest for 5 minutes, then skim off all the surface foam with a spoon or by laying a paper towel on top and lifting it off right away. Pour it gently into the ramekins, down the side, so you don't create bubbles.
- Cover each ramekin with a square of aluminum foil. Pour the hot water from the kettle into the dish until it comes halfway up the ramekins and bake for 30 to 40 minutes.
- Check for doneness by gently shaking a ramekin: the surface is set and the center jiggles as one piece, like gelatin, with no liquid wave. A toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean, and the custard reads 175 to 180°F (80 to 82°C) in the center. Lift the ramekins out of the water bath.
- Let them cool for 30 minutes at room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight, so the custard firms up and the caramel liquefies.
- To unmold, run a thin knife all around the custard, pressing against the side of the ramekin and going all the way to the bottom. Tilt the ramekin to let a little air in under the custard, set a shallow bowl upside down on top, flip it over in one quick motion, and shake once or twice straight up and down: the purin slides out and the caramel runs down its sides.
Why it works
Chef notes
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