Miso Salmon

Steps

1. Pour the mirin and sake into a small saucepan and let it simmer for 30 seconds to cook off the alcohol. Off the heat, add the sugar and stir until dissolved, then whisk in the miso until you have a smooth, glossy paste about the consistency of mustard. Let it cool, then spoon 2 tablespoons of the marinade into a small bowl and refrigerate it for the final glaze.
2. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels and run a finger over the flesh to find any pin bones; pull them out with tweezers. Lay the fillets skin side down in a dish and spread the rest of the marinade evenly over the flesh and sides. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, ideally 6 to 24 hours.
3. When you're ready to cook, rinse the rice in a large bowl, rubbing it between your hands, and change the water 4 or 5 times until it runs almost clear. Drain it in a strainer for 10 minutes.
4. Put the rice in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with the 360 ml of water. Bring to a boil uncovered, then cover, turn the heat to very low, and cook for 12 minutes without lifting the lid. Turn off the heat and let it rest, still covered, for 10 minutes: the grains finish swelling in the steam.
5. While the rice cooks, set an oven rack so the top of the salmon will sit about 5 inches (12 cm) from the heating element, and preheat the broiler on high for 5 minutes. Line a sheet pan with foil and brush it lightly with oil.
6. Take the salmon out and scrape off the excess marinade with the back of a spoon or your fingers: you want a thin, even film, with no thick clumps, which would burn. Set the fillets on the pan skin side down, a couple of inches apart.
7. Slide the pan under the broiler and cook for 6 to 9 minutes without flipping. Start watching at the 5-minute mark: the surface should be covered in dark brown spots and small bubbles. If the edges start blackening while the center is still raw, lay a sheet of foil over the top or move the rack down one notch.
8. One minute before the end, brush the tops with the 2 tablespoons of reserved marinade and broil for 1 more minute. The salmon is done when a thermometer in the thickest part reads 122 to 126°F (50 to 52°C): the flesh separates into pearly flakes under light pressure and is still slightly translucent in the center.
9. Let it rest on the pan for 2 minutes; the temperature climbs another degree or two. Meanwhile, thinly slice the green onions on the bias.
10. Fluff the rice with a paddle and serve it in bowls. Set the fillets on plates next to the rice, sprinkle with the green onions and sesame seeds, and serve right away.