Tofu Banh Mi

Steps

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Cut the firm tofu into 1 cm (3/8 inch) thick slices. Spread them on a clean kitchen towel, cover with a second towel, and set a cutting board weighed down with a full pot on top. Press for 10 minutes while you make the pickles and prep everything else: less water means a crust that browns instead of steaming.
2. For the pickles, dissolve 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the salt in the 120 ml (1/2 cup) of very hot water, then add the rice vinegar. Peel the carrots and daikon, cut them into 5 cm (2 inch) matchsticks (a julienne peeler is twice as fast), and push them down into the brine. Let them pickle for at least 15 minutes, stirring now and then.
3. Peel off the tough outer layers of the lemongrass and trim the dry end. Very finely mince the tender white part, about 10 cm (4 inches), then mince the garlic. In a bowl, mix the light soy sauce, the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar, and the black pepper.
4. For the spicy mayo, stir together the mayonnaise, sriracha, lime zest, and the juice of half the lime. Slice the cucumber into long thin ribbons, the jalapeño into thin rounds (keep the seeds if you like heat), and the scallions into 5 cm (2 inch) lengths. Pick cilantro sprigs with their tender stems.
5. Pat the tofu slices dry again and dust both sides with cornstarch, tapping off the excess. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, lay the slices in a single layer, in 2 batches, and leave them 3 minutes per side without moving them, until a golden crust forms and they release on their own.
6. Return all the tofu to the pan, lower the heat to medium, and add the last 1 tablespoon of oil to one corner with the lemongrass and garlic; let them sizzle for 1 minute until fragrant, without browning. Pour in the soy-sugar mixture, flip the slices, and let it reduce 1 to 2 minutes: the sauce bubbles, thickens, and coats the tofu in a shiny, sticky glaze. Turn off the heat.
7. While the tofu glazes, cut each baguette in 2 and crisp the pieces in the oven for 4 to 5 minutes, right on the rack, until the crust crackles under your fingers. Split them lengthwise without cutting all the way through and pull out a little crumb from the top to make room.
8. Spread the inside of the bread generously with spicy mayo. Layer in cucumber ribbons, then the glazed tofu slices with their sauce. Drain the pickles, squeezing them lightly, and add a good handful, then the jalapeño, scallions, and cilantro.
9. Finish with a squeeze of lime juice, close the sandwiches, and serve right away, while the bread is still crackly and the tofu still warm.