Calabaza en tacha (candied pumpkin with piloncillo)

Steps

1. Wash the pumpkin and cut it into large wedges, about 3 by 4 inches (8 by 10 cm), leaving the skin on. Scoop out the seeds and stringy pulp with a spoon. Save the seeds for roasting if you like.
2. If the piloncillo is in a hard cone, wrap it in a kitchen towel and break it into chunks using a rolling pin. Using a vegetable peeler, remove wide strips of orange peel, avoiding the white pith, then juice the orange.
3. In a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, combine the water, piloncillo, cinnamon sticks, whole cloves, orange peel strips, and orange juice. Heat over medium, stirring until the piloncillo has completely dissolved, then bring to a boil for 5 minutes.
4. Arrange the pumpkin pieces in the syrup, skin side down and flesh side up, in a single layer if possible, and ladle the syrup over them.
5. Cover and simmer over low heat for 45 to 60 minutes, basting the flesh with syrup every 10 minutes, until it is melt-in-your-mouth tender, translucent around the edges, and easily pierced with the tip of a knife.
6. Uncover and simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes over medium-low heat, basting frequently, until the syrup thickens into a deep amber glaze that coats the pumpkin. Watch closely toward the end so the syrup does not scorch at the bottom.
7. Let the pumpkin cool to warm in its syrup, which will continue to candy the flesh. Serve warm or chilled, drizzled with syrup, accompanied by cold milk poured alongside or served separately in a glass.