Fried smelts with Espelette pepper and gin-cucumber sauce

Small crispy smelts, served whole like freshly caught fish, with cucumber dressed in gin, a touch of vinegar, and Espelette pepper-infused oil. The fish remains at the center: the accompaniment brings freshness, brightness, and aroma without masking its delicate flavor.

Ingredients

  • 600 g fresh whole smelts, gutted if possible
  • 1 piece firm cucumber
  • 6 cl dry gin with juniper notes
  • 2 tsp ground Espelette pepper
  • 120 g wheat flour
  • 60 g cornstarch
  • 750 ml grapeseed oil for frying
  • 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 piece red onion
  • 2 pieces fresh scallion
  • 1 piece untreated lemon
  • 2 tsp fine salt
  • to taste freshly ground black pepper

Method

  1. Rinse the smelts quickly under a stream of cold water, then dry them very thoroughly in a clean towel or with paper towels. They should feel almost matte to the touch: if they remain damp, the frying oil will splatter and the crust will adhere less well.
  2. Prepare the cocktail cucumber: peel the cucumber, leaving a few strips of skin, cut it into neat small dice, then mix it with the gin, red wine vinegar, a little salt, pepper, and some of the Espelette pepper. Let it rest in the refrigerator until the cucumber releases fragrant, glossy juice.
  3. Thinly slice the red onion and scallion. Add the onion to the cucumber just before serving so it keeps its crunch, then set the scallion aside for finishing.
  4. Prepare the seasoning oil: mix the olive oil with the finely grated lemon zest, a splash of lemon juice, and the remaining Espelette pepper. Taste it: the oil should be lively and slightly hot, but not as acidic as a vinaigrette.
  5. Mix the flour, cornstarch, and fine salt in a shallow dish. Roll the smelts in it, then shake them one by one so only an even dry veil remains. The fish should look dusted, not buried under breading.
  6. Heat the grapeseed oil in a tall saucepan or deep sauté pan to about one hundred eighty degrees Celsius. Without a thermometer, a pinch of flour should sizzle immediately and rise to the surface without suddenly browning.
  7. Fry the smelts in small batches so the temperature does not drop. Cook them until they are golden, rigid, and make a crisp sound when moved in the oil. The edges should shrink slightly and the bubbles around the fish should become finer.
  8. Drain the smelts on a wire rack rather than on a plate, then salt them as soon as they come out of the oil. Wait only long enough for the crust to set, without letting them cool.
  9. Drain the cocktail cucumber slightly, keeping its juice separately. Arrange the cucumber and red onion in the bottom of the plates in a small amount, as a fresh condiment rather than an abundant salad.
  10. Place the fried smelts on top, drizzle with a few drops of the lemon oil with Espelette pepper, then add the scallion. Serve immediately, with the gin-cucumber juice on the side to spoon a little around the fish at the last moment.

Nutrition

Per serving

Energy
481 kcal
Protein
29.19 g
Carbohydrate
21.99 g
Fat
27.15 g
Fibre
3.39 g
Calcium
38.69 mg
Iron
0.75 mg
Magnesium
52.93 mg
Indicative, non-medical nutrition estimate; values depend on brands, actual weights, and whether ingredients are raw or cooked.