Zucchini Pasta with Lemon and Parmesan

Steps

1. Wash the zucchini, trim the ends, halve them lengthwise, then cut into 1/4-inch (5 mm) half-moons. Set aside a third of the half-moons, mixing both colors. Peel and thinly slice the garlic. Finely grate the lemon zest, then squeeze 2 tablespoons of juice. Grate the parmesan.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large 11-inch (28 cm) skillet over high heat. When the oil shimmers, spread the reserved third of the zucchini in a single layer and leave it alone for 2 minutes, then toss for 2 to 3 minutes: the half-moons should be golden in spots and still firm. Season with a pinch of the fine salt and set aside on a plate.
3. Lower the heat to medium-low, add 3 tablespoons of oil to the skillet along with the garlic. Cook for 1 minute, until fragrant but not browned. Add the rest of the zucchini, the remaining fine salt, and the chile flakes, stir, and cover for 10 minutes: the zucchini releases its water and slumps.
4. Uncover and keep cooking for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring every 2 or 3 minutes. The water evaporates, the zucchini collapses, turns translucent olive green and pale yellow, and starts to stick lightly to the bottom. Mash it roughly with a wooden spoon into a creamy compote with some pieces left. If it sticks too much, add a spoonful of water.
5. While the zucchini melts, bring 4 liters of water to a boil in a large pot and add the coarse salt. Add the rigatoni and cook 2 minutes less than the package directions: they should still be firm in the center.
6. Before draining, scoop out 250 ml of the pasta water in a mug. Drain the pasta and add it to the skillet with the zucchini over medium heat. Add 150 ml of the pasta water and stir vigorously for 2 minutes: the rigatoni finish cooking as they absorb the sauce, which thickens and starts to coat them.
7. Take the skillet off the heat. Shower in 50 g of the parmesan, add the lemon zest and juice while stirring hard, and add the rest of the pasta water a little at a time until the sauce is creamy, glossy, and flows slowly. Taste, adjust the salt, and add a few grinds of black pepper.
8. Return the golden zucchini to the pan, tear half the basil over the top, and stir just once so you don't crush them. Serve right away in warm bowls with a drizzle of raw olive oil, the rest of the parmesan, and a few basil leaves.