Rigatoni alla Vodka

Steps

1. Bring the 4 liters of water to a boil in a large pot and add the coarse salt once it's boiling. While it heats, mince the shallots very finely, into 1/16 inch (2 mm) dice, and mince the garlic: they should melt into the sauce, not show in it.
2. In a large sauté pan, melt 30 g of the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and the pinch of salt and let them sweat for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often, until translucent and soft but not browned. Add the garlic and chili flakes and stir for 30 seconds, until the garlic smells fragrant.
3. Add the tomato paste and spread it across the bottom of the pan with a spatula. Let it cook for 4 to 5 minutes, turning it often: it goes from bright red to brick red, sticks slightly to the pan, and smells like slow-roasted tomatoes. This step builds the flavor of the sauce, so don't rush it.
4. Take the pan off the heat before pouring in the vodka, so it can't catch fire from the burner. Return to medium heat and scrape up the browned bits. Let it reduce for 1 to 2 minutes, until the smell of alcohol fades and only a thick, glossy paste remains.
5. Pour in the passata and simmer for 5 minutes at a gentle bubble. Lower the heat, add the cream, and stir: the sauce turns an even coral color. Let it barely simmer for 3 minutes, then add pepper and taste for salt.
6. Drop the rigatoni into the boiling water and cook them 2 minutes less than the package directions: they'll finish in the sauce. Before draining, scoop out 250 ml of pasta water with a mug.
7. Drain the pasta and add it to the sauté pan with 100 ml of the pasta water. Set over medium-high heat and stir constantly for 2 minutes: the starch thickens the sauce, which starts clinging to the rigatoni and working into the tubes, and the pasta reaches al dente.
8. Take the pan off the heat. Add the remaining 10 g of butter and 40 g of the parmesan, then stir vigorously, tossing the pan. The sauce should be glossy, coat every piece, and slowly pool at the bottom: if it gets sticky, add more pasta water 2 spoonfuls at a time.
9. Divide among warm pasta bowls. Finish with the rest of the parmesan, a grind of pepper, and the basil leaves torn by hand, and serve right away.